A Brief History of Men in Jeans on Screen
Jeans became culturally significant the moment James Dean wore them in Rebel Without a Cause. Before that, denim was workwear. After that moment, jeans became a symbol of youth, rebellion, and cool. Marlon Brando reinforced it in The Wild One. The Marlboro Man cemented it. And every generation since has had its own denim icon — from the tight Levi’s of 1970s rock, to the acid-washed styles of the 1980s, to the baggy silhouettes of the 1990s, to the skinny jeans of the 2000s, to the relaxed, straight-leg styles of today.
Understanding Denim: The Key Concepts
Raw denim, also called dry denim or selvedge denim, is unwashed and untreated. It is stiffer initially but will mould to your body over time, creating a unique fade pattern that is specific to you and your movements. This is beloved by denim enthusiasts for obvious reasons — your jeans become genuinely your own. Brands like Nudie Jeans, Levi’s Made in Japan, and Edwin offer excellent raw denim options.
Washed denim is what most people wear — it has been pre-washed and softened in the manufacturing process, making it immediately comfortable and producing the faded look that most people associate with classic jeans. The quality of washing processes varies enormously — some create beautiful, authentic-looking fades, others produce cheap-looking blotchy results. Examining the fade and texture carefully before purchasing is always worthwhile.
The weight of denim is measured in ounces per square yard. Lighter denim (7-10oz) drapes softly and is comfortable in warmer weather. Mid-weight (11-13oz) is the most common and works year-round. Heavy denim (14oz+) is durable, substantial, and favoured by raw denim enthusiasts — it takes longer to break in but ages beautifully.
The Fits: Which Works for You?
The slim straight fit is currently the most universally flattering cut. It follows the leg without being restrictive — closer to the body than a relaxed fit, but without the painted-on feeling of skinny jeans. This is the cut that most contemporary film and TV characters adopt as their default denim. It works with everything from a blazer to a simple tee.
The relaxed fit — sometimes called a straight fit or regular fit — has made a significant comeback. It sits comfortably at the seat and thigh and falls straight down from the knee. For taller men with athletic builds, this can be an excellent choice. It has a nonchalant quality that reads as confident and unhurried. Levi’s 501 remains the definitive option.
The tapered fit is narrower at the ankle than at the knee, creating a slight taper that works particularly well for men who have more muscular thighs. It allows room where needed without excess fabric at the ankle. Worn slightly cropped to show a flash of ankle, the tapered fit has a contemporary, fashion-conscious feel.
The Best Denim Brands for Men in the UK
For affordable everyday denim, ASOS, Weekday, and H&M’s denim ranges have improved considerably in recent years. For quality mid-range options, Levi’s remains the benchmark — the 511, 512, and 513 fits cover slim, tapered, and straight respectively. Nudie Jeans are excellent for quality selvedge at a reasonable price point for the quality offered. For investment denim, A.P.C., Edwin, and Orslow produce extraordinarily well-made jeans that will last a decade with proper care.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: How often should I wash my jeans?
A: Far less often than most people do. Washing breaks down denim fibres over time. Spot-clean where possible and air out after wearing. Most experts suggest washing every 10-15 wears at most.
Q: Should jeans be hemmed?
A: If they’re significantly too long, yes. A proper hem maintains the original weight and selvedge edge. A simple fold and tack at home is fine for a temporary solution, but a tailor’s hem is always better for a garment you plan to wear regularly.
Q: Are expensive jeans worth it?
A: For jeans you’ll wear frequently, yes. A £150 pair of Nudie or A.P.C. jeans worn regularly for five years represents better value than five pairs of £30 jeans that wear out in a year.